West Hartford’s newest food option is Milkcraft – a unique ice cream shop that has opened at 967 Farmington Ave. in West Hartford Center.

By Ronni Newton

There’s ice cream, and then there’s Milkcraft.

“It’s a monstrosity of awesomeness,” said Matt McCarthy as he described the Creameebun concoction that his wife, Lauren, and 16-month-old daughter, Claire, were sharing at the bar of West Hartford’s newest ice cream shop.

The Creameebun is essentially ice cream (in this case vanilla) sandwiched between two baked “buns” that Milkcraft owner David Mainiero described as a “cross between brioche and glazed doughnut” with the edges heat-sealed to prevent the ice cream from spilling out. At least for the first bite.

The ice cream itself is made in small batches, from local ingredients.

McCarthy was enjoying “cookie butter blue” in a bubble cone – a Hong Kong style waffle cone which along with the Creameebun is one of Milkcraft’s signature offerings.

The McCarthys, who are from Wolcott and had been to Milkcraft in Fairfield – the only other location – happened upon the West Hartford location about an hour after it had opened its doors for the first time.

“We were eating lunch at bartaco and we Googled ‘ice cream,'” Matt McCarthy said. Google showed Milkcraft just a few storefronts away on Farmington Avenue (former La Petite France space), and they were among the first customers.

Meagan Mains of West Hartford was picking up her older daughter, Natalie, from preschool at Whiting Lane when she noticed that Milkcraft appeared to be open. She brought Natalie and her younger sister, Brooke, for a messy but delicious treat.

“It’s different – you have to figure out what to do,” she said of the three-step ordering process where the ice cream delivery method is chosen (creameebun, bubble cone, or cup), milk and other farm fresh ingredients are combined to create the ice cream flavor, and “accessories” – artisan toppings – are added.

Natalie was enjoying chocolate in a bubble cone, and Brooke had a cup of s’mores campfire (Valrhona chocolate, fire-roasted giant marshmallow, graham cracker crumbs). “It’s a little messy, but fun,” Mains said.  Natalie declared the ice cream to be “good.”

“It’s very thick and creamy,” said Mains, after sampling some of her daughters’ ice. Next time she said they would get the cookie butter blue. “We’ll wear blue shirts,” she said.

In addition to cookie butter blue and s’mores, other flavors include “strawberry balsamic,” “milk and cereal” (vanilla served with fruitee-o’s, choco puffs, and/or frosted flakes), and “Miss Piggie Does Vermont” (includes bacon and maple syrup). There’s a Vietnamese coffee flavor, PB&J roasted banana, sea-salted caramel, Choco Du Leche, and a “Bourbon breakfast” that includes a touch of Whistle Pig maple bourbon and can’t be served to minors.

For those who want or need a gluten- or dairy-free option, there’s strawberry sorbet.

Classic vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry ice cream is also available. “These flavors always available for crybabies,” the menu says.

Milkcraft also serves coffee – with or without a scoop of ice cream.

Mainiero said that eventually some “localized” and customized flavors will be featured, perhaps incorporating some product from a Hartford area brewery or spirits manufacturer the way the Fairfield location does with Two Roads Stout. Seasonal flavors will also be added to the menu.

Conard High School senior Lauren Cohen was hard at work when Milkcraft opened Tuesday, and although ordinarily she would be in school at that time, it was senior skip day. She described the process of making the ice cream, pointing out the steam that rises from the mixers as it’s flash frozen with liquid nitrogen, which makes the ice cream “creamier.”

“It’s a different cold, a deep cold,” Cohen said, as she prepared a “milk and cereal” for a customer.

“If my clients see me with this they’ll be mad,” joked Miguel Miranda, a trainer at New York Sports Club in West Hartford who was about to consume a few scoops in a bubble cone. He said that eating something like that is okay – as long as you work hard, too.

Ice cream “bouncer” Olivia Doolan, a resident of New Britain was standing on Milkcraft’s patio Tuesday inviting passersby to come in and try the ice cream. The patio – which extends from both sides of the door – is carpeted with artificial grass and furnished with hip and funky tables and chairs.

Later in the day, a long line had formed on the sidewalk as word traveled that Milkcraft was open.

The West Hartford location is the second for Mainiero and his wife, Lynn. Before starting Milkcraft, Mainiero, a Florida native and Harvard Law School graduate, had been involved with several Italian restaurants including Spazzi in Fairfield.

Mainiero said that he would like to grow the brand, but in a targeted way. “Milkcraft is not an idea to be a pop-down chain model. I prefer to be part of the community,” he said.

Milkcraft, located at 967 Farmington Ave. in West Hartford Center, is open daily from 11 a.m.-11 p.m., until midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.

For more information, visit Milkcraft’s website or follow them on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram (@milkcraftct).

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